Overview

This strenuous, 15-mile trail runs along the crest of the Spring Mountains, connecting the Bristlecone Trail (Lee Canyon) with the Bonanza Peak Trail (Cold Creek). Starting at either end, the trail runs west to the crest of the mountains, follows the crest, passes west of McFarland Peak, and then picks up the crest again before dropping eastward to the other trailhead. Much of the trail is forested with ponderosa pine, white fir, and aspen at lower elevations, and bristlecone pine at higher elevations. From the crest, there are spectacular views north and south along the Spring Mountains crest, and view east and west of the deserts and mountain ranges in the distance. This one-way hike requires shuttling vehicles or making other arrangements at the two trailheads. Water is available at Wood Spring (southwest of Bonanza Peak) during the spring and early summer, otherwise the trail is dry.

Link to map.

Watch Out

Other than the standard warnings about hiking in the desert, this is a pretty safe hike. There are some rocky spots where a slip could prove hazardous, but this is a good, safe trail. The trail is strenuous, so take it easy at these elevations if you've just come up from the desert. There is little water along this trail, and unless you are hiking during the spring or early summer, don't rely on getting water at Wood Spring.

While hiking, please respect the land and the other people out there, and try to Leave No Trace of your passage. Also, this is a long hike, so be sure to bring the 10 Essentials.

Getting to the Trailhead

Because this is a one-way trail, there are two trailheads: the Bristlecone trailhead in Lee Canyon and the Bonanza Peak trailhead above Cold Creek.

To get to the Bristlecone Trailhead, head out to the Spring Mountains and drive to the end of Lee Canyon Road (Table 1, Site 556). The Bonanza trail starts from the Bristlecone Trail, the trailhead for which is the end of the paved road. Park here; this is the trailhead.

To get to the Bonanza Peak Trailhead, head out to the Spring Mountains and drive to the end of Cold Creek Road (Site 259). The pavement ends on the far edge of Cold Creek town, but a dirt road continues past town (snow is not plowed during winter). It was reported (10/2006) that the access road is rough and degraded, and that it now requires a high-clearance vehicle, but not 4-wheel drive, to drive to the trailhead. Park here; this is the trailhead.

The Bonanza trail starts from the Bonanza Peak Trail, the trailhead for which is on the southwest side of the parking area. The trail goes around the south side of an open area (sometimes a grassy meadow), not around the north side of the open area. Snowplows don't clear this road during winter. Park here; this is the trailhead.

The Hike

This hike is described starting from Lee Canyon. Hiking in this direction mostly puts the sun at your back and gives you an 1,100-ft elevation advantage. The Lee Canyon trailhead (8,668 ft) is higher than the Cold Creek trailhead (7,550 ft), but the trail can be walked in either direction.

From the Bristlecone trailhead in Lee Canyon (Table 2, Waypoint 1), hike up the Bristlecone Trail as it angles back along the road heading towards the ski lifts. At the edge of the ski area, the trail turns to the southwest and runs up the canyon through a mixed pine, fir, and aspen forest. For details on this part of the hike, see the description of the Bristlecone Trail.

About 2 miles out the Bristlecone trail, you reach the junction (Wpt. 2) where the Bonanza trail forks off to the west. Follow the Bonanza trail uphill for about a mile, passing four switchbacks on a forested slope, to a saddle on the crest of the Spring Mountains (Wpt. 3).

From the saddle, the trail runs north over hills, around knobs, and across saddles for about 2.5 miles to the base of McFarland Peak (Wpt. 4). There are a few short, steep sections, but generally the grade is leisurely. Immediately above the saddle, however, there are many log waterbars that look like big wooden stairs; they are a bit strenuous, but they pass in only 5 minutes or so. There are great views in all directions from the crest, but the ancient bristlecone forest is so thick that it tends to obscure the expansive views familiar to desert hikers.

At the base of McFarland Peak, the USGS topo map shows that the trail turns south and heads down a series of switchbacks on the west side of the ridge before making a big loop around to the north side of McFarland Peak. This is no longer the case; the trail has been re-routed and shortened. When the trail on the crest gets to the base of McFarland Peak, it continues heading northwest at more-or-less the same elevation (slight downgrade) until just before reaching the steep main gully on the southwest side of McFarland Peak (Wpt. 5). The trail then runs steeply down towards the gully, drops down 6 short switchbacks, and crosses the gully. The trail then resumes the northwest trajectory, running at a gentle grade towards the top of the main west ridge on McFarland Peak (Wpt. 6).

As a side note, the route up the southwestern gully on McFarland Peak starts from the uppermost of the 6 switchbacks (Wpt. 7). When hiking north on the Bonanza trail, this is the first downhill switchback you get to under McFarland Peak. At the corner of the uppermost switchback, a faint use-trail heads up and northward across the slope and into the gully, passing just above a peculiar rocky outcrop about 20 feet from the main trail.

From the west ridge of McFarland Peak, there are great views to the north and south. From this point (or from the top of a knob a few yards west of the trail), you can look north to see Wood Spring, the southwest side of Bonanza Peak, and parts of the trail getting there. You can also see Mt. Sterling far to the north and Mt. Charleston far to the south. The imposing west face of McFarland Peak and the route up it can be seen to the east, and Pahrump, Death Valley, and the Sierra Nevada Mountains can be seen to the west.

From the west ridge, the trail turns northeast and switchbacks down the steep north side of the ridge at a fairly steep grade until rejoining the old trail near the bottom of the canyon. The trail then resumes a fairly easy grade as it contours (about 8,700 ft) around to the northeast and into the wash that runs down the north side of McFarland Peak (Wpt. 8). The trail crosses the wash at a point where, relatively speaking, the woods feel deep and dark with large ponderosa pine, white fir, bristlecone pine, and a few juniper shrubs.

From the bottom of the canyon, the trail heads west at a fairly easy grade before climbing onto a ridge below Wood Spring (Wpt. 9). Just before the ridge, the USGS topo map show an odd loop heading up the hillside and them back down, but the trail has been re-routed here too and generally follows the contour across the hillside.

The trail follows the ridge uphill before angling into the drainage below Wood Spring. After climbing a few short switchbacks and a fairly steep section of trail on the east side of the wash, the trail arrives at Wood Spring (Wpt. 10). Wood Spring is on the uphill (right) edge of the trail. The water is captured in a small metal box with a pipe coming out of the side, and water flows out of the pipe and onto the trail. Early in the year, at least, drinking water is available here, but the metal box is open, so be sure to treat or filter the water.

A few yards past the spring, a short trail forks off to the southwest (left) and leads to a small campsite that can be seen from the junction (it is big enough for a small tent of two). This is steep country, so if you are inclined to camp near the spring, this is the place to do it.

After the fork in the trail, the main trail goes northeast and directly up a forested hillside before starting a long series of fairly easy switchbacks that lead, eventually, to a point high on the side of the southern ridge of Bonanza Peak (Wpt. 11). The trail then cuts across the southwestern slopes heading for the western ridge of Bonanza Peak. There are some nice, high, and exposed sections of trail on the side of the peak with good views to the southwest.

The trail crosses onto the north side of the western ridge (Wpt. 12), and passes a large, open, relatively flat area that would be a good campsite for big groups (no water). The trail continues up the northwest side of Bonanza Peak, passing below the summit at an elevation above 10,200 feet. If you want to go to the summit of Bonanza Peak (10,400 ft), follow the trail for a few more short switchbacks until you arrive at the first point where you can look east across a little saddle and over the other side of the mountain (Wpt. 13). Leave the trail at this point, walk onto the saddle, and then follow the ridgeline back south to the summit (Wpt. 14).

From the little saddle on the ridge just below the summit, the trail begins a moderate descent towards Bonanza Saddle (Wpt. 15), the major saddle on the ridge above the Bonanza trailhead. There are great views to the northwest along this section of the trail. From Bonanza Saddle, the trail descends perhaps 80, mostly moderately graded, switchbacks to the trailhead (Wpt. 16). For details of this part of the route, see the description of the Bonanza Peak trail.

Please stay on the trail and don't cut the switchbacks. Cutting switchbacks damages the trail and the vegetation and it makes trail conditions worse for everyone.